This is part two of the "Cosplay Boy make-up" tutorial. Make sure to read the first part as well. You can find it here: [link]2. Kajal
This part of the tutorial is mostly thanks to my wife *chibinis-chan
who did the modeling for it.
She is doing her eye make-up after applying basic make-up
like shown before. She will show you one make-up with different colors. I'm holding this tutorial very short with just the steps as such because I already wrote all the tips for applying in the first part of this tutorial.
First she is using black kajal to draw a line on the eyelid and under the waterline of her right eye. The line under her eye is about 1/3 of the complete length of the waterline.
After this she uses brown eye shadow to blend it a little and make the contrast less heavy. Furthermore it fixates the kajal like usual powder fixes foundation.
If you want the make-up to look more natural you can use brown kajal instead of a black one and blend it with brown eye shadow as well. This is recommended for characters with bright hair like blonde and young boys. Of course there are exceptions. For this she is using a black kajal and black eye shadow combo. To show the differences here a compare.
On the left side in both pictures Chibi is wearing a black kajal with brown eye shadow. This is what she uses for characters like Ciel from Kuroshitsuji and Sora from Kingdom Hearts. The upper right eye shows a black/black combo. This is what she wears for Alois from Kuroshitsuji and in the lower right eye shows brown kajal with brown eye shadow. This is what she uses for characters like Roxas from Kingdom Hearts.
You can read the version of this written by herself here: [link]
I'm just putting parts of it into my journal to show other ways are possible.3. Lips
If you ask me this is the easiest and most important step in the boys make-up. It's covering the lips. Bringing the lips more to ones skin color makes them less feminine. All I need for this is a lip balm and a mousse make-up (I think a skin colored lipstick or something like this will work as well). I apply the lip balm for preventing my lips from drying out and cracking. It also helps adding the mousse onto my lips. After that I add the mousse and that's it. But like kajal it's nothing that will stay forever. You are talking, eating, drinking, maybe smoking or kissing, so some when the original color of you lips will be visible again. I carry both, the lip balm and mousse, with me at conventions to redo the process when it's needed.
So now we went from basic make-up to a n almost finished boy make-up. 4. Eyebrows
This step is completely optional. It highly depends on the characters I cosplay if I use it or not. Most of the male characters have very straight/unbowed eyebrows. If you ask me you can say "the more evil a character is the more will the eyebrows look straight and almost diagonal".
Most girls have a natural bow in their eyebrows which is nothing like the male characters' eyebrows. Mine are like this as well.
I experienced that something was terribly off when I did my make-up tests for Cloud from FFAC and Saitou from Hakuouki. It took me quite some time to find out what was bothering me so much and it turned out to be the shape of my brows.
There are a lot of ways to change the shape of eyebrows. You can shave or plug the brows and redraw them but I don't recommend it. This is a way that will not last as long as you are wearing a cosplay. You will have to deal with this in your regular life as well. So think a lot about it before doing this!
I recommend just covering them. You can purchase special wax for covering them in online stores or Halloween/theater make-up stores.
I heard about using a glue stick instead, tried it and it worked fine for me. I usually cover my eyebrows before doing my eye make-up, but it will work after doing it as well. Just don't put your wig on before to prevent getting make-up onto your wig.
I use a little spatula/scaper to take a little amount of glue from the stick and apply it onto half of my brow. I don't apply the glue directly to prevent it from getting dirty. If the glue gets powder from your basic make-up or the second layer of covering onto it will mutate to a slimy monster until the next time you use it and all the glue effect will be gone.
After I applied the glue I use my powder on a sponge and press it onto the glue. I use a sponge especially for this work and not my usual one. There shouldn't be too much pressure while squeezing the powder onto the glue. Otherwise the glue will smear and won't cover the brow completely. If one layer of glue won't cover everything you can add another one but be careful. The more glue you apply, the higher is the risk that it might look odd and uneven where the glue ends. If you have problems with getting it smooth you can use a blow dryer to warm the glue a little and a spoon for smoothing the edges. Sounds funny, but it works.
After covering the brow you can draw your brow the way you want . It depends on you if you want to cover your complete eyebrow or just a part of it. Of course this is not perfect since I'm just covering the eyebrows and covering is not deleting. But it works in a decent way if you don't want to shave or pluck your brows.
Next time I will show you how to color eyebrows matching to a wig color with different non permanent methods like dyeing. If you want to keep this tutorials for later you can just add it to your faves like every other deviation.